Visit to Kashmir, Jammu and Vaisnodevi and Amritsar

Visit to Kashmir, Jammu and Vaisnodevi and Amritsar

Planning of the vacation had started from May itself with the booking of the airline tickets. In August did the railway reservations. Did a lot of research by visiting some very popular websites like indiamike, couchsurfing etc. Made all the necessary arrangements like buying warm clothing’s etc and we were ready for our sojourn

10^th November 2012.

The scheduled departure of our flight was 9am by an Air India flight from Mumbai Delhi and Delhi Srinagar, so we started at around 6am from our place. We were at the airport at 7am and after completing all the due diligence, were ready to board the flight. But unfortunately the flight was delayed and finally it was to depart at 10.45am. Finally we boarded the flight and were on to our way to Srinagar. On reaching Delhi, the flight attendant made an announcement that the same flight would proceed to Srinagar. So I went to the person and told him I was issued boarding pass till Delhi only and I was under the impression that since we have to change the aircraft I will be issued a fresh boarding pass from Delhi to Srinagar. He contacted the commercial staff and he said that it was a mistake from Mumbai Airport and I have to disembark the Plane and get the fresh boarding pass issued. Then started our running around, with the commercial staff guiding us, to get a fresh boarding pass, collect our baggage and get is security checked once again. It was a literal run from one end of the airport to another and was a big harrowing time. But finally we could make it to the aircraft and were on our way to Srinagar. On getting down at the Airport we headed out to a bus which was waiting just outside the Airport to take us to TRC(Tourist Reception Centre). It charged is Rs 50 per head and it was half an hour ride. We had decided to stay at Mr Bilal’s house and we had searched that on Couchsurfing. It was a little on the outskirts of Srinagar on the bank of Nagin Lake in a place called Sada Kadal. We took an Auto to that place and the auto charged us Rs 120 to take us to that place. Bilal’s father Mr Rafiq was at the road to receive us. We went to their house and were given an independent room to stay on the first floor. It was quite cold and we were still very new to the Srinagar chill. Even though we had anticipated this chill, actually experiencing it was a different affair. It was evening by now and we decided to just chat with Bilal’s family and decide for the tomorrow. Bilal advised me to take an autorikshaw  for the entire day and he was also courteous enough to arrange for one. We had food with his family and retired for the day.

11^th November 2012.

At 8 am Mr Sara (Mobile 09796370420) came with his auto to take us on the tour to Srinagar. Rs 1100 were fixed for the entire day till almost 7pm. We had seen all Kashmiris’s wearing a winter wear called as Feren, and we were almost in love with it. It is a knee length dress and gives a decent protection from chill. So we directed Sara to take us to a shop that sold Ferens. He took us to one and we bought 2 for Rs 1150. This fantastic dress protected us from chill in the entire Kashmir. You would see me wearing this dress in my entire Kashmir visit. From that shop our first visit was the Shankaracharya temple. It is a fantastic temple on a hill overlooking Srinagar. We took our blessings there and proceed to the next stop which was Pari Mahal. This too is perched on another hillock. There were some wonderful flowers all around and the photos would speak to itself. This Pari Mahal was built by Dara Shikoh the eldest son of Emperor Shah Jahan. It was known to be a royal observatory and a school of astronomy was established here by Dara Shikoh.

From this Pari Mahal we descended down to Mughal Garden which also house Chasmeshahi. Chasmeshahi is a natural spring whose water is supposed to contain curative properties. Mughal garden has 3 terraces and has wonderful flowering plants planted.

From Mughal Gardens we descended to Botanical garden to some very unique trees. It is an often missed place but I think it is a must visit, even for a short time. We  roamed here for some time, took a lot of photos and were back in the auto rickshaw. Since the Tulip garden was closed (it is open only in April), we went to Nishat Bagh.

Nishat Bagh is another wonderful garden in Srinagar. It is the largest amongst all the gardens and had a wonderfully flowing stream from the centre of this garden. This stream which has been channelized gives it a majestic look and is perhaps one of the best gardens to see. We spent some time here, and as the photos show, had lot of fun. The central flowing stream with fountains and gardens laid out on both side, it was a surreal experience. After spending considerable time we moved to Shalimar Garden.

Shalimar Garden was laid out by emperor Jahangir for his beloved wife Noorjahan. This too has a central stream bisecting the garden into two parts. This channelized stream feeds the fountains and it is surprising how those fountains operate by flowing water pressure alone, with electricity. Shalimar bagh house some very old Chinar trees which are more than 400 years old. The uppermost part of this garden has a small building with a wonderful terrace. This building has some wonderful papier-mâché work but in a state of neglect and crumbling. This is a wonderful garden that seems to be going through trying time, as Kashmir has been going through. Now is getting dark and we decided to finish our journey to the day by visiting Hazaratbal. This Hazaratbal Shrine is said to contain the Hair of Prophet Mohammed and therefore considered very sacred. We were not allowed in the shrine, so we just roamed around, sat in the Auto and were back to our residence.

12^th November 2012.

We had decided to go to Gulmarg today. Rafi who is a friend if Bilaal and whose house we were staying helped us get a sumo. The tariff was decided as Rs 1600. So the driver came in with the vehicle at around 8.30am. We had Milan, a Serbian national coming with us. He was also a fellow couchsurfer. We were in the vehicle and the vehicle travelled almost flat till Tangmarg from where there was a climb. On reaching Gulmarg we had some snacks at local shack and decided to forgo the ponies. We were interested to go to the gondola, so we started walking towards a large gate from where the road to Gondola starts. On reaching the base station of gondola we found out that the gondola was closed for the day for some maintenance. We family members mulled and what to do know and with total consensus we decided to walk to the first stage of Gondola. Milan was also with us and equally keen on walking. So started our trek to wonderfully green forest. We trekked for almost 2 hours to reach the first stage of Gondola and it was not a very strenuous trek. We enjoyed this trek thoroughly. On reaching the top we had food at local hotel at Seven Springs which is close to the gondola station. Then we went into the snow nearby and frolicked. It was a wonderful time and we enjoyed every bit of it. On being satisfied with our play, we started of back journey and reached the taxi stand in an hour’s time. Milan who had gone ahead was already in our taxi and now we were on our way back to Srinagar and Bilal’s place. On reaching there we called Sara again and told him that we would be doing local sightseeing again tomorrow and would be engaging him for the entire day. We had dinner with Bilal’s family and retired for the day

13^th November 2012

Today was Laxmi Poojan and Diwali. As usual Sara arrived at Bilal’s house at 8.30 am and we started our local sightseeing today. Our first stop today was small temple on the way totally surrounded by the CRPF jawans. We visited the temple and wished a very happy Diwali to all the Jawans there. From there we went to Gurudwara Chatti Patshah. It is a nice gurudwara and we talked with the Sikhs in the gurudwara. We also wished them Happy Diwali.  From there on we went to  Badam vier  a garden with trees of Almonds. This is a large garden with lots of Almond trees. We spent some time here and then proceeded to Hari Parbat fort. The Auto left us at the foothills and from there on we walked at the top of the hill. It had temples at the foothill and one temple at the top of the hill. This too was surrounded by lot of CRPF jawans guarding this fort and the temples. There too we wished the Jawans Happy Diwali. Once on top of the fort it gave a fantastic view of the entire Srinagar. Soaking in this fantastic view we came back to the foothills and into the waiting Auto. Sara took us to Jamia Masjid and we went into the Masjid, took lot of photos of the flowers and the interior of the Masjid. It is a grand Mosque and wonderful for its grandeur. Most importantly we were allowed to go in and take snaps. Enjoying this lively sight, we now went to Tomb of Zain Ul Abidin, a popupar ruler of Kashmir before the advent of Mughals. A large structure near this small tomb belongs to his mother. We were here only for a few minutes and then headed to Bulbulshah shrine. Bulbulshah shrine has an exquisitely carved panels and a wonderful shrine to visit. Having taken a lot of photos and praying there, we headed to Shah Hamadan Mosque. It is a beautiful mosque totally covered with papier-mâché work. We were restricted to go into the mosque so we took photos from outside. Our next destination was Pather Masjid, or the mosque of stone. It is said to be built in 1623 by Nurjehan, wife of emperor Jehangir. It is almost vacant with no one around; we lapped in the wonderful architecture of the mosque. Our next stop was Dastgir Mosque. We were sad to see a burnt down mosque. We donated some money for rebilding the mosque, bowed our head in reverence here and were out. It was 5pm now and we had seen practically all the historic and must see places. So we directed Sara that he should take us to Lal Chowk, a central place of Srinagar for some shopping and ambling around. On getting down at Gahnta Ghar in Lal Chowk we were ambling aroung as we did not have much things to do. We saw Yatri Niwas, a small place to reside, and went in to enquire about the tariff. We were told that the tariff was Rs 300 for a day, and the rooms were clean and had geyser. Then and there we decided that we are going to shift here tomorrow morning. After that we walked around more and saw a Temple close by on the other side of the river.Crossing on the bridge we went to that temple and were happy to see Diwali celebrations in fervour. We bought 2 dozen candles here and planned to light Bilal’s house.  After wishing Happy Diwali to all in the temple, we went to our Auto and were on our way back to Bilal’s house. On reaching the residence, we illuminated the house with the candles we had bought, and it was such wonderful view. Then having food with this family, we informed that we would be leaving tomorrow to stay in Srinagar. Then we retired for the day

14^th November 2012

We called Sara early in the morning at 6.30qm, and we told him to drop at Ghanta ghar. He charged us Rs 120, and we paid him Rs 200 in total for his services. We checked in Yatri Niwas(Contact person Mr Inder Kumar 09906250250; Phone 09205431077, 09419006833; address Ghanta Ghar,Lal chowk ). We took quick shower and were out to TRC for bus to Sonamarg. But while on the way we met Mr Shabbir(ph. 09697911566) with his Xylo and he offered us a trip to Sonamarg at Rs 1600. So started our trip to Sonamarg. We had breakfast on the way, and reached Sonamarg by 11am. After getting down we started our trek to the Thajiwas Glacier. We had decided not to hire ponies and rightly so the people on the pony were shivering with cold and we on foot were feeling warm and energetic. Walking keeps the body warm and we are able to tolerate the cold in a much better way. After a trek, which is a easiest at it is not steep at all, we reached the Thajiwas Glacier in two hours. We enjoyed the scene here and enjoyed the walk a lot. I would highly recommend walking in this weather. With wonderful mountain peaks covered with snow and the mountains in all hues and colours, a few without any vegetation, was a different view and something that needs to be seen to enjoy. We spent some time on the glacier and now were back to the taxi stand. There we had lunch and then were back in our Xylo on our way back. The road journey to and from Sonamarg is a scenic one and we clicked a lot of photos of the adjoining Sindh river bouncing along.  While on return back, we went to Kheer Bhavani temple, for which we paid the driver Rs 500 more. This is a wonderful temple. And by nightfall we were back to Lal Chowk. Next day we had decided to move to Pahalgam.

15^th November 2012

As decided we were out of our room at 8am and to the taxi stand (Tariff Rs 70 per person) that would take us to Anantnag. We had planned to stop at Avantipur Ruins, which is bang on the main rood. So we were out of Srinagar and on the NH1A, which goes to Jammu. After about 45minutes of drive we were at the Avantipur ruins. This is a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is called as Avantiswami. It has a central raised temple with as many as 65 small temples around. After observing and taking a lot of photos, we were back on the road to take a vehicle to Anantnag. We walked a little while and saw a bus starting from a bus stand. We asked the driver and he told that this bus would take us to Anantnag. (Tariff Rs 20 per head)It was a nice rollicking 1 hour journey that took us Anantnag, almost next to the taxi stand from where we would get taxis for Pahalgam. We boarded a shared Tavera(Tariff Rs 70 per person) and were in Pahalgam in an hour’s time. We had decided that we are going to stay at the Gurudwara. So we checked into the Gurudwara and roamed around the town to fine better and alternate arrangement to stay. we walked on the chandanwari raod and saw many hotel in the range of Rs 500 per day. But we were not so happy with what we saw. In the evening we went to Nathu’s Rasoi to eat and on the way back we entered SRTC’s Aap Ki Rasoi which is next to TRC. On enquiring we were told that a room with Heater, geyser and a double bed would be available for Rs 600. So we decided to shift here the next morning. We went to the room at gurudwara and retired for the day

16^th November 2012.

The night was bitter cold at Pahalgam and the Gurudwara was not warm enough, so first thing we did was to shift to the new hotel. So we shifted to Aap Ki Rasoi(Next to TRC, Main market, near Pahalgam bus stand Phone 09797863669; 09796707767, 09796707787,09419016023, 09797796383). We found the room very cosy and the right thing for us. Today we had planned a local sightseeing of Aru Valley, Chandanwari and Beetab Valley. So we hired an EECO for Rs 1400 for the sightseeing. We stocked our bags with eatables and were out for a spin. First we went to Aru valley. It is a  surrounded by mountains and is a wonderful sight to see. There is a small hillock which can be climbed in 15 minutes and gives a wonderful view of this valley. On enjoying the view we were back in the car and on oour way to Chandanwari. Chandanwari is the place from where the Amarnath Yatra starts. The car dropped us at the taxi stand and we walked for 20 minutes to climb a few steps of the Amarnath Yatra. We relaxed near the flowing steam, filled our bottled with that natural pure water, drank some, and were back in the car. From here on we went to the Beetab Valley, which gets its name from the Movie Beetab. It is a nice flat land surrounded by high mountains and a wonderful place to be. We idled here for some time and then were back in the car to be back at Pahalgam. While on the road back we told our driver to stop the car at the road which goes to Baisaran. It was 4 pm.We alighted here paid the driver and told him to leave. We started our trek to Baisaran which is around an hour’s trek from the ground and fairly easy trek. We walked and reached Baisaran by 5pm. We enjoyed the wonderful scenery took a few photos a started our return journey to our room. We reached our rooms by 5.45pm and it was starting to get dark. We had a nice bath and then went to have a nice full dinner at Nathu’s Rasoi. Having had a nice full dinner, we retired for the day.

17^th November 2012

Today we have decided to visit the Martand(Sun)temple ruins. So we take a shared sumo that drops at Mattan, very close to the New Martand Temple. In the precincts of the temple is a tank which has numerous fishes. This fishes are known to be holy fishes and people feed this fish. From here on  we hired a Tata Ace Magic(Rs 300) to take us to the Martand Temple ruins. On reaching there we found that it is a wonderful ruin dedicated to the Sun god. Having taken lots of photos we told the driver to drop us on the main rod from where we can take a shared sumo to Pahalgam. He did so as told and dropped us on the main road. After waiting for a few minutes we got a shared Tavera(Rs 70 per person) which took us to Pahalgam. By evening we were back to Pahalgam. Then we roamed around in the market, did a few shopping of woollen clothes from Gandhi Ashram, a shop approved by KVIC. The clothes were good. Then we had our dinner again at Nathu’s Rasoi and went to our room. We did oour packing as today we were leaving Kashmir and head to Katra

18^th November 2012

Today we had decided to check out of our room in Aap Ki rasoi in Pahalgam and proceed to Katra. So as decided we started our journey at 8am. We got into a shared sumo who charged us Rs 100 per person to Khanabal from where getting another shared vehicle for Dhumal which was close to Katra our final destination for the day.

Khanabal is a junction just beyond Anantnag and is the place where there are regular vehicles to Katra and Jammu are available. We reached Khanabal at around 9 am. We got in another shared Tavera  which was supposed to go to Jammu but would drop us at Dhumal. We boarded this vehicle at 10 am and the travel was wonderful initially with beautiful scenery but after an hour we got bored. It was a long 7 hours drive and it was tiring. It cost us Rs 550 per head.  At around 5 pm we got down at Dhumal and we waited for another bus that would take us to Katra. In a few minutes the bus arrived. It was jam packed, but we managed to get in. It was half an hour ride to katra and cost us Rs 20 per head. In the bus we were talking to fellow travelers and got to know a few things about the stay. We got down at katra, searched a few hotels and settled for M/s Lalita Guest House(Phone 09419164729; 08803529248, Address opp Hotel Subhash, Main Bazar, Katra). It was a nice room on the second floor with attached bathroom and Geyser. Once we checked in we took bath and were mulling on what to do next? After some discussion we decided that will walk to Vaishnodevi shrine tonight. So we had some light refreshments and took the entry ticket and were on our way to the Shrine. We started our climb at 9.30pm.

19^th November 2012

We were walking towards the shrine. It is 14 km uphill climb, and since the atmosphere was good were walking. We reached the shrine at 3am, and after depositing the bag and footwear in the cloakroom were inside the shrine to take blessing from the Mata Rani. Fortunately there was not much rush and we were able to take darshan nicely. Once out, we collected our bag and footwear we were back on our way to the hotel. It was 8.30am by the time we reached the hotel. So in total we were on foot for 11 hours, either walking or waiting in the various queues. We were really tired so we quickly ate something and went to sleep.  After getting up at 11.30am, we packed our bag and were on the bus to Jammu. The bus ride for one and half hour and cost us Rs 35 per head. We were at jammu at 3 pm. Almost all hotels and dharamshala’s were full. So I caught hold of a Autorikshaw person and he took us to Hotel Mini Palace(ph 0191-2548950;0191-2562106 Address Near Raghunath Temple, sunder singh gurudwara road, Jammu) . It was a decent hotel with clean toilets and geyser which charged us Rs 600 for a day. Once checked in I took bath and went to a nearby cybercafé to check my train reservation status, and thankfully all our tickets were confirmed. After coming back we all went to the Raghunathji Temple and from there to McDonald’s , had our food and were back to hotel and asleep almost at 8pm.

20^th November 2012

After getting up and freshening up, we went to a few placed like Temple Ranvireshwar, then to a museum which has a few paintings displayed, and can be very well be missed but for a 120 kg solid gold throne of the Dogra kings of Jammu and Kashmir. We had our lunch near the Raghunathji temple and picked our bag from our rooms took and auto(Rs 100) to Jammu station. We got into our 3AC compartment in the train to Amristar for which we had done reservation well in advance. By evening 7 we were at Amritsar. From there we took and auto(Rs 50) to Golden Temple. After getting down at the golden temple we went straight to the Dharamshala for room. They directed us to Baba Deep singhji dharamshala which was 10 mins walk from golden temple. On reaching Baba Deep singhji Dharamshala we were allotted a room on 5^th floor. The tariff was Rs 200 per day. It was a clean self contained room with clean toilets. After getting in the room we quickly refreshed ourselves and went to the Langar to have our food. After having food we were back to the room and retired for the day.

21^st November 2012

After getting up and finishing our morning chores we first visited the Baba Deep singhji Gurudwara which was bang opposite the dharmshala. We bowed our head and took blessings and went to langar for our breakfast. From there we went to the Golden Temple. There was a long line but no pushing around. It took us almost 45 minutes to reach the Harimandir Saheb popularly called as Golden Temple. We went inside, then climbed the steps to go one first floor and still more steps to go at the top. It was a wonderful experience. From there on we went to Akal Takht building which houses the main center of decision making for the Sikhs. From there we went to the Museum which shows paintings of the difficult times the Gurus and there disciple has to undergo. We had our food in the Langar in the golden temple and proceed to our room to get our bags as we were going to Wagah border now. It was almost 2.30, so we rushed to our room, collected our camera and were near the prepaid taxi stand at golden temple where we get taxis to Wagah border. We boarded one such taxi after paying Rs 100 per person and we on our way to Wagah Border. On reaching there we were amazed to see the crowd. It was so crowded that we could not see the evening parade. But once the parade got over the crowd got thinned and I could reach close to the India Border. Took a few photos of India Border and Pakistan border, of the jawans manning the post and were back in the taxi, on our way back to Amritsar. Once near our dharamshala, we got down, had or food in the langar and were back to sleep.

22^nd November 2012

Today was our last day of our trip and we were to board the train at 9.15pm.  So we had entire day to our disposal. We went to Jalianwala baug first in the morning and saw the martyrs well, and the gun shots on the wall. It was a touching experience. From there we again went to Golden Temple as we had not taken photos the previous day. So took lots of photos. We had food in a hotel as kids were a little tired of eating in the langar. We were back in our room and relaxed till evening. Now it was 7 pm and we went to the Baba deep singh gurudwara, gave some donation, prayed, took Prasad, had food at the langar and wee back to the room for check out. We checked out at 8pm, hired an Auto(Rs 100) to Amritsar station. The station was crowded but some people travelling to Delhi to protest. This people got into our A/c compartment. We had a tough time getting in and when all the fellow passengers arrived this protesters were told that this is an A/C compartment and they should go in some general compartment. Finally they moved and we settled in our seats to be back to Home Sweet Home

And finally Photos and videos that tells the tale of of wonderful journey can be viewed at the following link : https://plus.google.com/photos/109577474678108761419/albums/5815724394689739329